Bon Appetit!

From Bridal Guide Sept/Oct 2010


     You know the saying, "You are what you eat"? Well, when it comes to weddings, you are what you serve. We know you're hungry for fresh ideas, so we asked leading chefs and caterers for their big-day advice.

Choosing a Caterer
     As with any vendor, it's helpful wot get word-of-mouth recommendations. But just because your aunt loves a local caterer doesn't mean that person will suit your taste. It's all about finding a good partnership-someone who possesses the underlying qualities you're seeking, says Olivier Cheng, owner of Olivier Cheng Catering and Events in NYC. That could mean a chef who is service-driven, uses only organic foodstuffs or specializes in a certain type of cuisine. Peter Callahan of NYC's Callahan Catering agrees: "Everyone has things they are good at and like to do. You want a caterer who likes to do what you are looking for."

When and How
     Start your search six to nine months out. Many caterers post sample menus on their websites, which you can browse to get a sense of their culinary style. Reputable companies should offer a complimentary tasting. "If a caterer charges for a tasting, that to me would be a red flag," says Lisa Dupar of Lisa Dupar Catering in Seattle. "I compare it to test-driving a car. You want to get the feel of it before you spring for it."

Rules of the Table
     First and foremost, feature foods you love. "I always ask clients, 'What would your last meal on earth be?" says Rolando Mafnas, catering director at San Francisco's Betty Zlatchin Catering. "Not that we'll necessarily serve those exact things, but we can incorporate some of them into the event." Share your favorite cuisines and restaurants with your caterer as well as anything you strongly dislike. And consider a few general ground rules: Stay away from garlic, onion, heavy spices and stringy greens that stick in teeth, as well as thin fish or meats like veal that are difficult to cook for large numbers.

Budget Matters
     Brian Kiefer, a senior sales consultant at Chicago-based caterer Food for Thought, recommends setting a food and beverage budget in advance of the tasting, to help direct the chef. Also, be aware that businesses vary in how they quote pricing. Mafnas says, "A lot of companies start low on the spectrum and then - when you choose to work with them - tack on all the necessary items, so your budget spirals out of control." When comparing costs, be sure to ask what's included in an estimate. Does it cover labor (servers, bartenders), rentals (china, flatware, glasses, linens) and service charges (taxes, gratuities), or just the menu? Make sure your contract contains a detailed, line-itemed proposal.

Food and Service
     The next step is deciding on the food and its presentation.
    
     The Sit-Down Meal. This provides a focused dining experience. "Any item can be plated more artistically on an individual scale," notes Eric Fenster, co-founder of Back to Earth Organic Catering in San Francisco. "Everyone gets that piece of art in front of them." It also dictates a level of formality. "I recommend it for the bride and groom looking for a traditional fairytale wedding," says Mary Giuliani of NYC's Mary Giuliani Catering & Events. To reduce costs, don't offer a choice of entrees or ask for the selection in advance - taking an order at the table requires that the kitchen have 80% of each item available. And you really don't need more than two or three courses, according to Mafnas.
     Menu Suggestions: A sit-down dinner gives chefs the most freedom to experiment with complex cooking techniques and presentations. Cheng may start with a sweet pea and tarragon soup, followed by wild striped bass en papillote with fingerling potatoes and truffle butter, or a rack of lamb with sweet onion soubise. Callahan likes to serve crispy cod in a chervil sauce, with shaved asparagus and a carrot puree. Although restaurant-style sophistication is one approach, "You don't need caviar to be classy," says Giuliani. "I had a bride insist on serving tomato soup and grilled cheese for a first course and the guests loved it!" For another couple that met in New Orleans, she served po' boys with tasting-sized hurricanes, a popular local cocktail.

     The Buffet. These are best for partying crowds that might get restless confined to their chairs. But even so, consider plating the first course and setting the tables with china to eliminate those unappealing piles of plates beside the food display.
     Menu Suggestions: Callahan recommends offering beef, poultry and seafood items as main-course choices (his favorites are flat-iron steak, lemon chicken and lobster), along with some starches and veggies. Fenster points out that pastas and grain dishes (lasagna, risotto) are ideal for a buffet spread or shared sides.

     Stations. This means offering a mix of small plates, sometimes prepared by chefs on the spot. Stations allow for greater variety and customization - but this often comes at a higher price than the more budget-friendly buffet.
     Menu Suggestions: You could have a sushi chef prepare made-to-order rolls or offer a customized ceviche, dim sum, crepe or taco bar. Kiefer takes a cue from Spanish tapas creating highly composed small plates, such as braised cage-free chicken with cornmeal gnocchi or pork belly and radish chips over an Asian slaw.

     Family Style
     Menu Suggestions: Dupar recommends open-faced ravioli with fresh corn, sweet peas and smoked ricotta. Callahan likes short-rib burgers with zucchini frites, or shrimp, avocado and mango spring rolls with snow peas julienne: "We serve them on hip acrylic plates, so the food has a chic appetizer feel to it, while being big enough for dinner."

     The Cocktail Hour/Cocktail Party. Another trend is what Giuliani calls an "all-passed" wedding, which means that hors d'oeuvres are circulated on trays throughout the night. Of course, comfort foods are always crowd-pleasers. ("Everyone loves pigs-in-a-blanket," says Giuliani. "Don't fight it!") Cheng notes that "you can be a lot more eclectic with cocktail fare. A sit-down dinner has to have continuity, but with passed appetizers you can offer both hamachi tacos and croque-monsieurs." Dupar adds, "We can credit the Food Network for people letting go and having more fun with food. For hors d'oeuvres, I like Dungeness crab cakes with remoulade, and ricotta gnocchi with bolognese and shaved pecorino." Fenster suggests endive cups with strawberries, chevre and candied nuts; tartlets filled with squash, cheese and herbs; and seared risotto cakes. At Food for Thought, signature amuse-bouches include Brie and pear quesadillas with maple salsa, and lobster "push-ups" (mousseline in a sliding plastic vessel like the popsicles with the same  name). Callahan Catering offers inventive creations, such as their "beef and beer": steak carpaccio paired with mini mugs of Guinness. For formal fetes, Mafnas gives mini foods an upscale twist - think tater tots stuffed with fontina and wrapped in prosciutto. If the party goes into the wee hours, Giuliani recommends passing bite-sized breakfast items, like mini bagels with scrambled eggs and mini pancakes.

 Region and Season
     Because fresh ingredients always taste best, many caterers get inspired by the wedding locale and encourage regional specialties (wild salmon in the Pacific Northwest; steak in Texas). But remember that while a fish and vegetarian option would suit a crowd from either coast, beef is a safer bet for Midwesterners. Above all, experts advise going with what's seasonal. "No chocolate-dipped strawberries in December!" says Dupar.

     Fall and Winter. Go for rich dishes like braised peach chutney beef short ribs or rosemary chicken with squash; for vegetarians, consider a mascarpone polenta or veggie paella.

     Spring and Summer. Dupar suggests serving Alaskan halibut on coconut cilantro rice with watermelon salsa. Cheng says, "In summer go for color, like gazpacho with avocado salad." For a July reception, Kiefer developed a chilled menu: cold morel mushroom ravioli with tomato salad, a chilled tenderloin entree, and a trio of refreshing desserts.

Delicious Drinks
     Sparkling cocktails set a celebratory tone, and adding seasonal fruits - like peach or pomegranate - shakes up a classic champagne royale. Or consider a specialty spirit station, like a margarita or bourbon bar. For signature drinks, artisanal mixers (juices freshly pressed or pureed on the premises) are hot, as are vintage concoctions. "We're seeing a swing back to the Fifties and Sixties - Manhattans and Rob Roys - maybe from the Mad Men series," says Kiefer. Giuliani suggests an "all-white bar," with prosecco, pinot grigio and a vodka cocktail. "It's chic and saves money," she says.

     Desserts and Alternatives. An ice-cream truck, a make-your-own macaroon bar or a camp-style  s'mores pit adds an element of surprise without undermining the wedding cake. "It's a conversation piece," says Amy Atlas, a NYC event designer known for her elaborate tables of treats. Some couples have a dessert reception featuring a never-ending stream of sweets. If you're more into pancakes than cupcakes, a brunch reception might be up your alley. Whatever you do, just be sure it suits your taste!